Destination Review: CUBA
January 2010
Cuba - land of cigars, rum, sugar, and Fidel. “Go before it changes,” we thought.
Cuban Flags for Sale
It sometimes seems as if Cuba defines itself by its opposition to the United States - the victories of the Revolution and the Bay of Pigs may be well known; a celebrated baseball triumph may have passed non-baseball-loving Brits right by.
Our 1955 Bel-Air at Plaza de la Revolucion
Reminders of Cuba’s long and complicated relationship with the United States remain very visible on the streets of Havana: the Chevrolets, Oldsmobiles, Buicks, Chryslers, and Pontiacs that still form a significant proportion of the city’s automobile population. Their continued functioning is a tribute to the ingenuity of Cuban mechanics, particularly as they are apparently now often fitted with Lada or Toyota engines. Our morning’s tour of the city in a 1955 Chevrolet Bel-Air Convertible was a real high spot.
Havana
Havana - at least Havana Vieja (Old Havana) - is a beautiful city to wander around. The imposing Fort of El Morro dominates the entrance to the harbour which defines the city. The narrow streets are virtually vehicle free (not many Cubans have cars) and there has been a huge effort in recent years by the City authorities to restore the crumbling buildings. Beautiful newly-painted architectural gems juxtapose crumbling ruins which have been split into multiple occupation. Housing remains a pressing need in Cuba.
Plaza Vieja in Old Havana
Our wanderings took us, between stops in numerous street cafes, to the City Museum, the Rum Museum, the Automobile Museum, the Chocolate Museum (oh yes!), and the Museum of the Revolution. The Revolution has, of course, had a bad press in much of the West, but Batista was a desperately bad dictator, and American Mafia money was all over Havana and the then Cuban government.
The Revolution brought education and healthcare, but fifty years on the economy still struggles. Is this because of the US blockade, or is it a structural weakness of the communist system? Certainly most people are poor; a teacher may earn the equivalent of £10-15 a month, and many families struggle to augment a modest diet obtained by ration cards from sparse state-owned shops. Yet anyone in a tourist-related business might make that in tips on a good day. The divide is emphasised by there being two currencies: Cuban Pesos for most people, and Convertible Pesos for tourists and luxury shops.
Exploring Cuba
In the fields
Towards the western end of Cuba is Vinales - farming country. Here we wandered among the tobacco, pineapple, and corn fields where farmers - often with cigar in mouth - still sow by hand. Agricultural machinery is rare, and usually ancient. Tobacco leaf hangs in drying sheds, waiting to be rolled into those famous cigars.
Trinidad de Cuba is a UNESCO World Heritage site. A major centre for trade and piracy in the 1700-1800s, not much has changed in the city centre and it would make a wonderful set for Pirates of the Caribbean. We wandered around the cobbled streets and found a thriving craft market - the nearest thing to a private shopping centre we found in Cuba. Now a little way from the town, the beach was a vision of white sand and blue sea with, as is often in Cuba, very limited facilities.
Plaza Mayor in Trinidad de Cuba
Heading back north (and Cuba is much bigger than you think) we came to Santa Clara, site of one of the pivotal battles of the Revolution when Che Guevara led an attack on a government armoured train. The train’s skewed carriages now provide an imaginative museum. Also here is Che Guevara’s mausoleum - a haunting place - and museum. Che is an icon in Cuba, and his image appears everywhere, much more so than Fidel’s.
A Real Gem
Visiting Cuba is a chance to see a society which, though in many ways familiar to us with its Spanish history and art deco development, has also been isolated from mainstream western culture for half a century. There is no McDonalds, no KFC, no Starbucks, and no Coca-Cola, and that alone is worth the trip!
Havana is a real gem, music is everwhere, there is beautiful scenery, and the Cubans are very friendly. It is not, however, a cheap destination and quality and service are not watchwords; food can be unimaginative and mid-range hotels may offer only fading grandeur.
Cuba is now at a crossroads as Fidel hands over the reins. What will it be like in a decade or two? Who knows - best go now and beat the rush!
Thank you to Elizabeth and Martyn for sharing their fascinating travel experience in Cuba. If you have a travel experience to share with Your Travel Planner readers, please do contact me at Go2 Holiday Research. We’d love to hear from you!
